The big problem was that the cooler didn't have a drain in it. From what I can tell, this only occurs in the 50 quart, not the 48 quart, which is visually identical but has a drain (and I imagine that it might be more insulated, as the cost tends to be significantly higher, if you can find them). Not having a drain was a problem that couldn't be easily fixed by a drill.
I pretty much followed the directions I found at the BrewTech blog, the major difference being that I wasn't using a pre-existing hole in the cooler wall. The hole I drilled was perfectly sized for the brass nipple to thread through. It doesn't even leak there at all.
One place that it did leak was where I threaded the nipple into the valve body. That's probably because I (like an idiot) didn't remember to use teflon tape on the connection. It got tightened naturally and I couldn't back it out to tape it afterward. So, I grabbed a tube of silicone sealant (for use on faucets and such) and sealed up that joint. No leaks after that. I just bought some tape to use on the barb fitting, since that one will loosen and leaks a very tiny bit when the drain is open. I also added a rubber washer to the inside to help seal against the cooler wall, but it probably would have been fine without that.
I wrapped the thing with blankets and threw some hot water in to test. It dropped 8 degrees over the first hour, which worried me a bit. Then I realized that hot water doesn't benefit from three things:
- Insulating value of the grains - The grains themselves have an inherent insulating value
- Sugar solution - A sugar solution loses heat slower than plain water
- An exothermic reaction - The conversion process creates some amount of heat itself
The only other modification that I did to it was to drill some holes in the lid, which was hollow, and spay some expanding insulating foam that I got at Home Depot in there. It seems to work pretty well. If you try this, be careful, as the foam expands a LOT as it cures. I had to deal with foam expanding out of the holes for almost 12 hours. After the first hour I put a trash bag over the whole top and let it just leak (but only into the trash bag, so no mess). The excess leakage, once hardened, was easy to break/scrape off.
Pictures of the new mash tun:
It features a Michigan Brewer's Guild sticker on one side (I'm from Detroit, but now live in Chicago), an anti.team sticker by the faucet (that's my crew from college), and a Norther Brewer sticker on the other side (not pictured). I think this is going to become my beer sticker receptacle. I can't wait.
Hello,
ReplyDeleteI have a website with a guide on the different types of Igloo cooler parts available. I think it would match well with your page here for a link exchange:
http://thisiswhatidowithmytime.blogspot.com/2009/11/igloo-cooler-mash-tun.html
In a link exchange, each party simply puts a link to each other's page on their website. This can increase trust with the search engines, increasing rankings for both parties. If you're interested, send me an email at:
pbyservices @ gmail.com
Preston Y.
http://yardsurfer.com/igloo-cooler-parts/